Valentines Day

It's Valentines Day in Paris. I guess it is in the rest of the world as well. I had planned to spend the day inside. I don't know why, maybe as a way of refusing to celebrate a holiday that I don't understand, maybe as a way of punishing myself for coming here in the first place, but most likely to avoid the hundreds of couples that filled up all the airplanes to come to France and kiss under the Eiffel tower with all of the other couples wealthy enough to be romantic. But however determined I was to stay in, around 2 PM I heard the sound of drumming outside my window. I investigated and discovered the Carnaval de Paris. It was essentially a parade. Though it seemed slightly less organized and slightly more interesting. But the big news is that I met someone. A girl. An American. Her name is Becca. She was taking pictures of the procession near Republique and I made some comment about the quality of light being better if she shot the procession from behind and it turned out that she spoke English and we got talking. Apparently she lives here. We followed the Carnaval down where it ended at Hotel de Ville. After we'd had enough drumming, marching and costumes we crossed the river to see the Notre Dame.

Becca is pretty cool. She's here doing a fashion internship.

She took me to an English bookstore called Shakespeare and Company. We sat and listened to an improvised concert from two guys who later told us their names were Mabite and Julien. Julien-Mabite played a song called Gloria that was rather nice... I didn't really understand it but it sounded nice and their French listeners seemed to enjoy it. They kept playing until no one could think of another song that they knew. Then they stopped. It turned out to be the kind of eventful Valentines Day that you would see in a movie. But I guess it would have been a French movie because there wasn't really a story, just events. Maybe what makes events a story is the relationship they have to one another. In American movies events have a cause and effect relationship, building upon each other like Lego® blocks. In French movies events tend to have a more lucid relationship, like building something out of blocks that never actually touch. Maybe they think this is the way life is. Just a series of disconnected scenes with the same main characters... Of course this is a generalization, many French movies take the mainstream Hollywood approach to storytelling and many American movies don't. But neither approach really approximates life appropriately, does it? Maybe life is a mixture of cause and effect and unrelated uneventful events...

Maybe life is what you get when you have those two extremes existing simultaneously. Events that mean nothing causing everything. Right now I am sitting in a room, alone, recording a history that no one will read. No one will ever know I was here, sitting, writing... This would make a terrible movie in French or any other language... Yet somehow this causes everything. This moves me across an ocean to a new country and a new culture. It remakes me entirely. Maybe it's in these moments, our uneventful events, that we chose the effects of the causes in our life...

Wandering the bookstore later I saw some young kid, probably late teens, sitting in the upstairs room scribbling something in his notebook, periodically glancing up at the red rose laying on the desk in front of him.

Me: Are you writing about a girl?

He looks up at me and removes his white earbuds.

Teen: What was that?

Me: Are you writing about a girl?

Teen: Yeah... (with a crooked smile and a blond hair flip)

Me: That's fitting.

Then I walked away.

I should have said cliché. I said fitting but I meant cliché. Writing about love in Paris... why don't you try something new for a change. Why not write about food, or God, or violence, or racism, or family, or selfishness, or confusion, or biology, or patriotism, or personal hygiene, or suicide or anything but love. Actually I take back suicide, suicide and love are basically two faces of the same coin. Anyway, point is that as cliché as it was, it got me thinking. If I was sitting in a bookstore in Paris on Valentines Day looking at a red rose on and listening to... for the sake of argument let's say it was "With or With Out You" by U2... and scribbling furiously in my little notebook about love, what would I write? And the more I thought about it the more I felt that I had nothing to say.

I have forgotten how to Love.

OK that might not be entirely true. There is a very real possibility that I never actually knew how. But the important thing, the realization that I had, was that the only things I could write were questions.

Happy Valentines Day.


Sincerely,
Willim

The Joshua Tree (Remastered)

Trains, planes and missing the point

I missed my train. It wouldn't have been a big deal if I hadn't just hopped on the next one that came along. Apparently not all the RER C trains go ORLY airport. This one went to Dourdan la-Forêt, but I was only half way there before I realized I was on the wrong train. Now I am sitting on the correct train but my flight leaves in 15 minutes and I won't be to the station where I can catch the airport shuttle for another 20 minutes. I have missed my flight but I am too tired to care. I got up at four in the morning to pack the last of my crap and get to the airport on time. I woke my roommate up and we had this unpleasent little conversation:

Martin: Qu'est-ce que tu fait?

Me: Je pars maintenant.

Martin: Ou? En fait, Je ne me fous. Un peut plus doucement si te plait.

Me: Je ne comprend pas.

Martin: Faire silencieux!

Me: (blank stare)

Martin: Be quiet! Tu comprends ça?

Me: Oui. Mais...

He stared at me angrily for a moment and then went back to bed. I don't think he realizes that I'm not coming back. He'll figure it out eventually, right now all I want is to stay awake long enough to get out of this country. I wish this train were faster. I hope my plane is delayed. I'm leaving this country just like I came into it...

I fell asleep on the train.

Bet you didn't see that one coming. Luckily someone who saw I had suitcases nudged me and I was able to make it off the train in time. And that is the end of the good news. I missed my flight, as expected but unfortunately since Saint Valentines day is Sunday all the flights in and out of Paris are booked until next Wednesday. Originally I had planned to spend the holiday on a layover in Chicago. Where I don't know anyone and far away from you and from the city where all of western civilization comes to celebrate romance. Instead I'll probably be hiding indoors listening to Martin fight with/make love to his girlfriend. Won't he be happy to see me. I'm taking the train back into Paris and I guess that now it doesn't really matter if I fall asleep. The thing about a plane ticket is it makes you feel like you have somewhere to go. Like you have some place to be. It was nice while it lasted. Maybe I'll get a train ticket. I could go see the south of France. Anywhere but here really.

Goodnight,

Willim

p.s. I woke up an hour later to a great view of the Eiffel Tower from the RER C. I guess this isn't the worst place to be stuck in.

curently reading:
Gulliver's Travels (Penguin Classics)

Long walks in dark places

I went dancing tonight. You would have hated it. It was the kind of thing where two years ago you would have pretended to like it because going to things like that is what "fun" people do, but now that you are older and more mature you realize that people can be "fun" and still avoid stifling crowds and blaring music. Five years from now and you'll have given up being "fun" altogether and you'll be content just doing what you want.

I just went to try to meet people. People who speak the People's English. Americans, though I would have settled for a Canadian or a Brit or a Kiwi. It was an ERASMUS event and a foreign passport got you in for free. The place was called Club Mix and like any other club it was a terrible place for meeting people. Even without the language barrier everyone there seemed young, like "I have to pretend that I enjoy being here because I am fun" young, and I'm just to old for that kind of young. Then there was the crowd at the bar, which I guess is where you go when you you need to feel "fun" but you don't know how to dance. I did have one attempted conversation but the girl turned out to be French... I think... The conversation went something like...

Me: HEY! MAYBE YOU SHOULDN'T DANCE WITH A DRINK IN YOUR HAND.

Random-club-girl-who-just-spilled-her-beer-on-me: (Yells something inaudible/incomprehensible)

...The music was really loud, which is what happens when you go to a club to meet people. So I moved to a corner and danced by myself until the tips of my hair were dripping and I could no longer tell if the wet was beer or sweat. The thing about dancing is that you don't have to say anything... overall it was "fun" I guess.

And now the dancing is over and I don't know where I am... also I think I'm dehydrated... and I smell like an asshole. Apparently Paris shuts down around 1 AM on Thursday nights. I went to the Metro station and there was a gate covering the entrance, I didn't have any money for a cab so I just started walking. I've been walking for... a while now, and I just keep going despite the fact I have no idea where the road I'm on is leading me... one foot in front of the other, turning whenever whenever it "feels right". I'm tired, I'm thirsty, I'm lost. Maybe I should just lie down on one of the subway grates where the warm air blows up from underground and sleep for a couple hours. If I spoke enough French I could ask one of the homeless people I keep passing if they would share their bed with me.

And then I see her, dressed in her flashing, glowing, twirling neon, and standing at the end of the street ahead of me. Suddenly I know right where I am. Not physically of course, I still have no idea how to get from whatever part of Paris I am wandering through to the part where my roommate is waiting to be inconvenienced, annoyed, and woken up by my arrival. But culturally, socially, spiritually, I know right where I am. I'm standing completely exhausted, covered with a thin frozen cocktail of alcohol and perspiration, looking up at the Moulin Rouge.


And it's fitting.

Turning a corner  onto the Boulevard de Clichy, I leave the Moulin behind me and I find an expanse of sex shops, peep shows, and "private" clubs stretching in front of me, lighting my path with their blinking neon that attracts the empty, the sick, and the hungry like a moth to a flame... or maybe more like a fly to shit. This whole street reeks of shit, of filth, of the dregs that are left once you take all of the meaning out of love. I see a group of old men lurking outside a club, a younger man exits a theater and slips into the night with his eyes glued to the sidewalk. I pass some women and try to avoid eye contact. A man approaches a woman in front of me, they walk off together. It looked so easy. What did they say to each other? If there was a girl on this street not too old, not too young, maybe just trying to pay her way through school... maybe we could just talk about her classes, that might be nice for her... Do you think any prostitutes in Paris speak English?


Am I really that lonely? Sorry, let me rephrase that, I AM REALLY THAT LONELY. It's not really the way I pictured loosing my virginity. Smelling like an asshole, making love to corpse, someone who would rather get paid fuck than to talk because it takes less effort to just lie there, and I'm to tired to keep it stiff but I'm still struggling to climax, struggling to have an orgasm, struggling to convince myself that I am somewhere else, with someone else... with you.


It's cold. Salty icicles are beginning to form on the end of my nose and eyelashes. But I am to tired to care. And I'm too tired to ignore the real reason that I am here. The reason that I am unhappy. It's not just you. There is this hole in my... in me. Sure, part of it is yours, you left it with me when you removed yourself from my life, but I dug it deeper. Maybe I was trying to excavate every remaining part of you, trying to dig you out of my heart entirely, but unfortunately I found it hard to separate what parts were you and what parts were me. For a while I was a gaping absence of a man but the thing about holes is that they never stay empty for long. If you do not fill them they fill themselves, and my hole is full. Full of black. Full of shit. Full of hate and regret and frozen beer/sweat/tears cocktail. My hole is full of emptiness... which, sadly, I am learning is not a lack of something, but an overabundance of nothing. And so I've filled my hole, partly with the things I found to replace you and partly with the things I neglected to, I filled it until it was over my head, trying to drown the pain, but only succeeding in drowning myself and in making myself sick. And I am sick. I am disgusted. I want to throw up the entire last year, vomit all of the slop that I have wallowed in for far to long. Start over... fresh.... is that why I came to Paris in the first place...


What really pisses me off is that the only reason I want to turn my life around is for you. Somewhere deep in there I am convinced that if I can become good enough or successful enough that you will take me back. No, not that you will take me back, that you will want me back.

...and so I ran across half the world, all the time I was delusional enough to believe that I was not running away from you but somehow running toward you. But now it's time to stop running. Time to stop pretending that I am happy here. Maybe it's time for me to just come home...

Sincerely,

Willim

Moulin Rouge! (Widescreen Edition)

A second for second thoughts.

I'm sitting at the metro station. The train is late... or I missed it... it doesn't matter, I have nowhere to go. And as I have nothing else to do but wait for the next train I thought I'd write you another letter.

I've been here nearly a month now and I'm still amazed that I'm here. And I'm still amazed how everything here is different. I don't know how to explain it. It's a modern society but it's built on the two thousand years before it. I went to a building that was built originally in the 700's and then I rode across town and saw some skyscraper office buildings. It's like nothing I've experienced before. But mostly... it's cold. The air is cold, the people are cold, and my apartment is cold. I feel like all I ever talk about is how cold it is but this past week has been the coldest of the winter. And the silence is starting to get old. I haven't talked with anyone since I've been here. I mean really talked to them like had a conversation. Martin and I still aren't speaking. I'm pretty sure he hates me but even if he doesn't we can't talk. If I stay here I am definitely going to have to look into language schools. If I stay... which I'm beginning to reconsider.

I haven't been sleeping great lately, can't seem to put my mind to sleep, it's swimming with French phrases, and the incredible things I've seen, but mostly the unanswerable question. Why Paris? Why did I come here of all places. Why am I in France.

I've always been obsessed with France, ever since I can remember. I took french classes in 7th and 8th grade, that was the earliest that I was allowed to take a foreign language. I think I must have been thirteen. My obsession started well before that, sometime in my childhood. I really have no idea what caused it, whether it was a movie, or a book, or some other stimulus, but my suspicion is that somewhere along the way during my formative years I picked up the idea that girls like French. And more importantly, that girls would like me if I spoke French. French is the language of love after all.

This little idea that I had, this little lie that I told myself was not the only of it's kind. I also believed that girls would like me if I could play the piano or guitar or if I was a good dancer. I haven't learned the guitar yet, but I became an excellent dancer in eleventh grade and I taught myself the piano sometime around the age of twenty. Don't assume that I do these things just for the girls, I don't, I am just recently discovering this correlation between things that I enjoy doing and a belief that girls like boys who do those things. Maybe there is no correlation maybe I'm just making it all up. Maybe when you don't spend a lot of time talking or sleeping you spend too much time thinking. I don't know... Maybe France isn't really what I wanted it to be. Actually, I never really wanted-- Never mind, trains approaching.

Sincerley,

Willim

Currently Reading:
Sixty Million Frenchmen Can't Be Wrong: Why We Love France but Not the French